Their design came from the Alumaweld style gutters.
On pic right is the outer gutter wall, then pic left is the inner gutter wall, then directly on top of the inner wall is the lip.
It over hangs to (in theory) help keep the water from splashing into the hatch when the mega waves start crashing onto the deck.
In the foreground of this pic is the block for the oarlock. The notch in the inwale is where the post of the oarlock will nestle. The outer gunwale was going to get carved into as well but I had a bad feeling about it after seeing the inwale so I called for a redesign. (Opting for longer bolts instead of carving into the gunwale)
Dang, you do nice work!
ReplyDeleteHey, what is the stuff you used for your nonskid grit? I used sand the last time I did it, and it worked but I'm curious as to the alternatives.
Thanks Brad, I'm learning from the pros... like you!
ReplyDeleteFor the nonskid I used two different products: (the store didn't have enough stock)
Decks: Fine grain silica sand ~$4 per LB. (yes, I paid for sand...novice move) It looks like a golden sand. Bought it from Fisheries Supply. I liked it the best as the particles had some roundness to them. Not too sharp but a little on the large size. I've had to double coat the paint over them to make it look good. Feels nice on the feet. (I'll check the brand name at the shop tomorrow)
Footwells and passenger seats: Trex brand fine grain nonskid ~$2.50 LB. This stuff was white to light grey. Much finer but kinda sharp. It looks the best but kinda prickly. It lays out in a thinner more uniform layer.
I'm pretty sure regular sand would work just as well. I've sure got a lot of it here on whidbey island. Something tells me Flag may have an unlimited supply.
The stuff I've used when refurbishing boats is a fancy product and looks really good but its $31 a pint! -Petit Specialty nonskid fine. Yikes. Thats like having a toilet made of gold.